Both my husband and I love
ossobuco; the flavors of the tender meat that falls off the bone and melts in your mouth. We are most familiar with the classic
Ossobuco alla Milanese which is cooked in white wine, broth,
tomato and vegetables topped with an herb
gremolata. Veal shanks can be cooked in many different ways, the main thing is to cook them very slowly with other flavorful ingredients to make them shine. After having
ossobuco with
porcini mushrooms recently in an Italian restaurant rated as one of the top ten in the United States I wanted to try the same version at home. (Side Note - my mother loved bone marrow and taught us that it is considered a delicacy in Italy. I never
appreciated that when I was a child, but I understand fully now and savor the treat.)
Soak 1 ounce of imported dry
porcini mushrooms in 2 cups of lukewarm
water for 20 minutes. Strain the
porcini and
reserve the water. Rinse the mushrooms under cold water and chop them roughly. Line a strainer with a double paper towel and train the
porcini water to remove dirt deposits, reserving 1 cup of the liquid. Dredge 4 to 8 veal shanks (2 to 4 pounds) cut about 2 inches thick in flour,
shaking off excess.
Heat 2
tablespoons unsalted butter with 2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. When butter and oil is hot (butter will start to foam) add the veal and cook until both sides are golden. Transfer the meat to a plate.
Add 1 large carrot and 2 celery stalks that have been diced to the skillet, and cook and stir until they are golden.
Add the
porcini and stir into the vegetables.
Return the veal to the skillet and add 1 cup of dry
Marsala wine. Cook until the
Marsala is almost reduced.
Add 1 cup beef broth, 1 cup canned imported strained tomatoes, domestic tomato sauce or crushed tomatoes and the
reserved soaking water. Bring to a boil, cover the skillet with the lid askew, turn heat down to low, and cook until the meat
begins to fall away from the bone, 1 1/2 to 2 hours or so. Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped
parsley.
Serve with soft
polenta, or orzo drizzled or not with saffron oil.
This is a lovely sauce, layered with distinct flavors that blend gently to make this a favorite in my household. The light flavor of the veal and prosciutto, layered with the aromatics of the carrot, onion and parsley, the hint of Marsala and nutmeg grounding the sauce, and a touch of cream taming the tomato and adding a slight richness to the sauce. Dishes such as this cooking on the stove top bring a sense of place and a warm soul to my kitchen.
Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a cooking pot over medium heat. Add finely minced 1 small carrot, 1 small onion and 2 tablespoons parsley and cook, stirring now and then, until the onion is pale yellow and soft, perhaps 4 to 5 minutes. Add 10 ounces of ground veal and 1/4 pound sliced prosciutto finely diced and cook, until the meat is no longer pink, stirring now and then.
Add 1/2 cup dry Marsala wine and cook until it is almost all reduced. Stir in 3 cups strained or crushed canned tomatoes, 1 cup chicken broth, 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper.
Cook, uncovered over low heat (gentle simmer) 45 minutes or so, until the sauce has a medium-thick consistency.
During the last few minutes of cooking add in 2 tablespoons double (heavy) cream and stir a few times. While the sauce is cooking, cook penne rigatta, fresh made gnocchi de patate (potato gnocchi), spaghetti, noodles or rice to serve with the sauce. When serving, top with freshly grated parmigiano. I like to stir in perhaps a 1/2 cup of the cheese to potato gnocchi and sauce.
